for my main floor I had a lot missing but my casings are pretty standard for the age so I bought a whole bunch of reclaimed casings and baseboards and stripped them. it was expensive but at least the attic all matches and the wood looks nice. My baseboards were all missing all through my attic and I opted to just buy nice edge grain knot free fir. If you buy your material a bit wider than you need, you can rip pieces off the edges of the board and add them to the backside, that way you get a more invisible joint because you are able to use the same piece of wood, so the grain pattern will be very similar.īut you were going to paint the casings anyway right? so in that case you can use cheap pine if you want or buy pre-cut casings. You can just use 3/4 but add strips to the back near the edges to build it out, then you can save money by not needing full one inch material. you can cut down 2x material, but that gets expensive if you want nice edge grain knot free lumber. my top casings are all a full inch and the side casings are 3/4įull dimension finished 1" wood is expensive. if they weren't it would look funny because where the side casing butts into the top, well the top casing has rounded off corners so it would leave a funny gap if it weren't thicker. In most houses the top casing is thicker than the side casings. it didn't save them wood but I think it helped with the warping and also made it easier to plane a bit off if you needed to, for fitting. Often the casings or the baseboards are hogged out on the backside, except near the edges. Make a good joint and glue it up, and you'll never notice it is a different piece of wood. I would run the casing over the jointer to get a flat face to add to, and use the same kind of wood. If there is any curve or taper to the wall or the jam it is easier to plane a bit off the added strip than to adjust the thickness of the whole casing. I usually just finish right up to the doorjam and even fill it flat and paint it, then after If I need to add a little strip to the backside of the casing I do. I would think it would be more normal to have the casings on top of the lath or drywall. if there is a difference between the hieght of the fnished wall and the door frame you can add a strip to the backside of the trim to close the gap. you could remove the lath and do 5/8 gyproc. Your trim in that room is missing, how about downstairs? Id' be more concerned with matching what is in the rest of the house now. Thought? What are other folks doing with this? I am wondering if I am missing some of the pros and cons here too? If I go the first option, the cracks are much less noticeable, but I worry that the trim may look like it sticks out too far. This is what the previous owners did and experience shows on a painted wall it can look somewhat untidy, on a papered wall it is less noticeable. The issue with this is that up here in the Northeast we get a lot of seasonal movement in wood, and that joint opens and closes with the seasons especially with newer wood (all the trim will be new - original stuff was ripped out in 70s). I could replicate this by using some of the old lath and place the sheetrock butted up to the trim, just like the plaster. This gave the trim a low relief on the wall. The plasterer then just plastered up to the trim. they were installed against the lath before the plastering was done. Originally the door casings window casings and baseboard were sunk into the plaster. This isnt a big deal per se, except when you get to the trim. about 3/8" less than it would have been when plastered. In other smaller rooms I have replaced the lath and plaster with 1/2" sheetrock, this essentially brings the wall to the thickness with just the lath, i.e. Now I am just about ready to add the vapor barrier and put up sheetrock.īut now I have a quandary. So as part of the dining room project I have removed the split lath to gain access to the stud bays.
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